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When curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect familiar high-end venues. However, situated high among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” states a family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.